Life Ball
Written by Steve Weinstein
Over 40,000 people participate. The highlight is a spectacular, Vienna-style ball inside the historic City Hall. Elton John, Scissor Sisters, Grace Jones, and Kylie Minogue have all performed at this event. The finale is a glittering fashion show — Donatella Versace, Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood, and many other A-list designers have presented their creations. Best of all, this mega-event has raised over $16 million for AIDS groups in Europe and Africa.
I have had the privilege of attending dance events all over the world, from Sydney to Amsterdam and all points in between, and I can say with confidence that Life Ball is in a league entirely unto itself. It’s elegance meets sexy, Old World tradition meets Circuit party revelry. Above all, it’s spectacle.
Last year’s theme was Water, which meant an entire lake was built around the stage leading out from Vienna’s gothic City Hall, the site of the dance party. Rhine nymphs in glittery mermaid costumes cavorted with Neptunes as fantasy gondolas drifted by. Watching this was a crowd of several thousand that included everyone from Fran Drescher and Eva Longeria to Ivana Trump and Bill Clinton. The evening included a special song written and performed by Dave Stewart (of Eurythmics); Roisin Murphy; a fashion show by the Blonds, with Pamela Anderson leading the pack in a golden bikini, Patricia Field the presenter, and a small army of runway models and New York voguers; three opera tenors performing Handel, each emerging from a giant scallop shell raised onto the stage; and the night’s showstopper, Katy Perry. Oh, did I mention 25 couples dressed in matching Viennese ball gowns and tuxedos entering in a glittering procession?
The effect is so dazzling that after a while I literally had to rub my eyes in disbelief. This is to Circuit parties what Champagne is to Coca-Cola. They both taste good, but one is vintage, the other not so much. And there is dancing. Oh, is there ever! The 2009 Life Ball had at least three dance spaces on various levels of the City Hall, with Susanne Bartsch, the avant-garde New York party promoter, presenting a show of that city’s premier nightlife denizens like transsexual sex bomb Amanda Lapore — among several other acts.
As for the crowd, it’s an unusual mix of straight couples, gay men, and just about everyone else who is able to score a ticket. (The party traditionally sells out very early.) People dress for this in the most fanciful costumes imaginable. I painted my entire body silver, and — trust me — I didn’t stand out. The costumes and body paint tops Mardi Gras in New Orleans or Sydney. It seemed as though every male model in Eastern Europe was on one of the dance floors. The effect is not unlike dancing in the middle of a Bel Ami movie. The party begins after the incredible presentation, usually around 11 p.m., and goes until about sunrise. I admit that by 4 a.m., this grizzled Circuit veteran was so overwhelmed by it all, I had to retreat to my hotel room.
This year, the 18th Life Ball, normally held in May, has been moved to July 17 to coincide with the 18th International AIDS Conference, also being held in Vienna. The theme is Earth. I can’t even imagine how the creative army behind this incredible event will interpret this theme. This year also marks the first time that the Austrian Parliament opens its doors to an amfAR gala, which will mirror similar events in Cannes, Milan, and New York (and very likely surpass them). As if that weren’t enough, the former Imperial Court Theatre will host the Red Ribbon Cotillion, a formal ball in the strict Viennese style.
Discovering Vienna
One of the best things about Life Ball is that it gives you the perfect excuse to visit Vienna. The former capital of the vast Austro-Hungarian Empire, which lasted to the end of World War I, contains more palaces and churches per capita than any other major European city. Many of these have been turned into museums or government buildings, and a few into hotels and private apartments. Together, the many art, design, and history museums house one of the world’s premier collections of Old Masters and the best collection anywhere of the edgy style of early 20th century art known as the Vienna Secession.
Schönbrunn, the Habsburg’s summer residence, is worth a special trip, but right in the heart of town is the Hofburg, the largest urban palace in Europe. Get there when the Lipizzaner stallions are out for a trot. There’s also amazing shopping (forget Bruno; the Austrians are known for their stylishness and good taste). Composers like Mozart, Haydn, Strauss, and Mahler made Vienna the music capital of Europe, and the music still suffuses the streets and cafes. The Vienna Philharmonic is generally considered the best in the world, and the Vienna Boys’ Choir by far the most famous such group anywhere.
Austrian food has a reputation for being heavy on meats and the ubiquitous schlag, that dollop of fresh whipped cream served with the justly famous local coffee concoctions (drunk everywhere at all times) and all those fabulous desserts. But alongside the traditional (and delicious) schnitzel, boiled beef and spaetzle dumplings, lighter fare has made inroads. The difference between the chic and trendy restaurants here and in the States is that everything has a distinctly Austrian accent, with full use of local produce. I was able to sample the incomparable early-spring white asparagus.
At night, this world capital offers an array of temptations for a gay visitor. There are bars and dance clubs catering to leather, fetishes, yuppies, young and old. There are also several saunas and back rooms. Many (if not most) gay men live in and around the center of town, so the nightlife is in a concentrated area, which makes for easy bar hopping. The metro is easy to navigate, and taxis aren’t too expensive, which is good because, like most ancient cities, Vienna haphazardly grew outward and can be confusing on foot.
Getting into Life Ball
Because of its reputation as Europe’s most spectacular AIDS fund-raising event, getting into Life Ball is not easy. Prices starting at only €150 go very quickly (it helps to know someone who knows someone). The best way to get in is to buy a more expensive ticket. Boxes for six people are €1,000 for each person, but it’s worth it for the VIP viewing of the spectacle on City Hall Square, the service and the Champagne, as well as other amenities. Go to http://www.oeticket.com/redribboncotillion for tickets; or email .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address) for box reservations. And don’t wait too long!
WHERE TO STAY
The three hotels owned by Starwood, one of the world’s most prestigious hotel chains, are as much a part of Vienna’s center as the Danube River, and are annually selected as the official host hotels of the Life Ball.
The Bristol
If you’ve drunk Pilsen Lager, you’ve already sampled a bit of the Bristol history. In the late 1800s, the brewer turned it into the residence of choice for High Society and visiting royalty. Korso, the restaurant headed by Reinhard Gerer, has been awarded three “chef’s hats” by the Gault Milleau — the foodie equivalent to a Pulitzer or Oscar. After the war, the American Embassy took over the hotel, which is located across the street from the gorgeous state opera house. The film Princess Marie, starring Catherine Deneuve, was filmed there.
Karntner Ring 1
http://www.bristolwien.at
Hotel Imperial
The Imperial was built in 1863 as the former palace of a senior member of the Habsburg dynasty, but it was so large it was quickly converted into a hotel. It is an imposing structure, with rooms spacious and beautifully appointed. This is the one where Bill Clinton stays, along with every head of state from Adolph Hitler to the queen of England. But the atmosphere is surprisingly unstuffy. It’s also home to the Imperial Torte, a death-by-chocolate confection made with marzipan and cocoa crème.
Kaerntner Ring 16
http://www.hotelimperialwien.at
Le Méridien
The bratty younger sibling to the above two hotels is housed in another historic building, but inside, an attractive young staff beckons you into Vienna’s answer to all of those boutique-style hip hotels. Up-to-date furnishings in the large rooms belie the shoebox aesthetic of those boutiques, however. During Life Ball, the gargantuan bar space and restaurants become a genuine scene, with celebrities trailed by local paparazzi and models voguing down the breakfast buffet table (not that they’d eat anything). The shower comfortably fits five, just in case you make some new friends at the Ball.
Opernring 13-15
http://www.lemeridien.com/vienna
Reader Comments
And don’t neglect to visit the Albertina museum for its great modern art collections.
By Jamie on 05-13-2010
